This week was fairly quiet in pastryland, although two friends separately sent me the news about Fany Gerson, who started Dough donuts, opening her new donut place Fan-Fan Doughnuts, which looks incredibly good, and I’ll have to make a trip to visit, as soon as this sentence runs out of commas. I was always a fan of Dough’s unique flavors (like their hibiscus doughnut, which is my fave), but they are bit too much on the big and bready side. I’m very excited to see what she’s up to with Fan-Fan and particularly that bomb-ass looking sticky bun.
And apologies for the slightly late delivery, I’m currently upstate on the Great Sacandaga Lake for a retreat with my new co-founder, which does involve making cinnamon rolls, and led me to be a bit busy with other things when I normally write bun stuff. But let’s get into it!
August Laura
Last fall, as I was lamenting to everyone in my social circle about the lack of a good cinnamon roll in NYC and starting my quest for this year, I discovered that the hip new brunch spot around the corner from my apartment had a cinnamon roll on their menu. August Laura, which took the place of the much beloved Sidewalk Cafe on 6th/Ave A, was recently opened and due to the incredibly convenient location became the first official cinnamon roll to be tasted as part of this adventure.
I arrived shortly after opening on a Saturday, eager to beat the rush. I was the second seated customer, and upon ordering, was informed “the cinnamon roll guy isn’t here yet so it may be a while.” Disheartened, I had a normal breakfast while killing time, and thankfully after finishing the appropriate staff had arrived and was ready to make some rolls. (Aside: I am well known for having two breakfasts, so frankly this was a totally fine way to spend the morning).
August Laura’s cinnamon roll was advertised to have buttercream icing, nueske bacon, and candied pecans, and it did not disappoint. When put on the table, it was completely covered in frosting and very warm. Cutting in with the fork, the dough was light and flakey (almost like a sweet pot pie crust), an unexpected delight. The bacon was smokey and flavorful, cut into small pieces that were slightly thick. It was a great balance to the light cinnamon flavoring and the hint of citrus in the buttercream frosting. The candied pecans added some nice crunch, but didn't do much for the flavor and too sparse to be meaningful. It comes as a large portion, so great for sharing (or for eating by yourself if you’re a pastry professional).
Now for the bad news: another casualty of the pandemic, August Laura is no longer offering the cinnamon roll on their menu, so you’ll just have to trust my review and those beautiful #nofilter photos (seriously the light that morning was incredible).
Sullivan Street Bakery (EV pop-up)
Sullivan Street Bakery, a well-beloved NY institution, recently opened a pop-up in the East Village on 9th St between 1st Ave/Ave A. I’ve had their Chelsea location on my to-do list for a number of years, and was excited to try it so close to home. I arrived this past Sunday for their opening at noon, to be informed the “delivery truck was running late” (the theme was unintentional for this week’s bun stuff), but after about twenty minutes I popped inside to check things out. On offer were three kinds of pizza (a marinara, potato chip, and zucchini gruyere), three sandwiches (mortadella, BLT, and chicken kimchi avocado), bombolinis, olive oil cake, blueberry tarts, chocolate chip cookies, and straight up croissants. Quite the array!
I went for the marinara slice, BLT, olive oil cake, and blueberry tart, and took my goodies to Tompkins Square Park to stuff my face and listen to the jazz ensemble playing that day. The marinara slice was quite tasty, with a thick and airy dough that had the perfect amount of crunch and yeastiness. I regret not getting one of the more unique slices, but there’s always next time. The BLT was perfect - the bacon had a great smokiness to it and the roll was perfectly accentuated. The olive oil cake was just the right level of moist with a good amount of lemon flavoring, which I really liked. Last but not least, the blueberry tart. Perfectly photographed as I realized portrait mode doesn’t need a face (thanks Emilie), it was incredibly buttery and sugary and moist and fruity and exactly what you want to finish off what this unique breakfast.
Any special requests?
This is the tenth edition of Bun Stuff 🎉🎉🎉, is there anything else you’d like to see? Anything you want me to review? Any more bun photos you feel like you’re missing out on? Let me know!
As always, thanks for reading and don’t forget to tell your friends you like bun stuff and you’d love for them to join you.